As much as we have adored FRANCIS since its opening in 2018, we think Carmela pips it to the post.
Opened at Nan Fung Place in Central by Hong Kong hospitality veterans chef Asher Goldstein, restaurateur James Ward, and sommelier Simone Sammuri, the new Mediterranean restaurant is a worthy successor to the trio’s Middle Eastern and North African restaurant brand.
Mirroring its warm, inviting interior, Carmela’s dishes are fresh, light, and vibrant, both in appearance and flavour. The menu features a relatively small but nicely curated selection of sharing plates inspired by Greece, Italy, and the entire southern Mediterranean region. The dishes are thoughtfully conceived, presented beautifully, and taste as good as they look.
We began our journey across the Med with the whipped mackerel “tarama” (HKD78) paired with the garlic and sage sourdough fougasse (HKD50). Served warm, scissors are provided with this traditional Provençal flatbread, a chewier cousin to Italian focaccia that arrives golden and glistening with olive oil.
“Tarama” is short for taramasalata, a deliciously smoky and salty Greek dip made with salted and cured fish roe. Carmela tops its version with whole trout roe for an extra burst of umami brininess.
Next up were the grilled zucchini flowers (HKD150), a change of pace from the pungency of the tarama. Here, the zucchini flowers, earthy and offering a natural sweetness, are filled with a cream cheese mixture enhanced by the tangy, citrusy brightness of preserved lemon.
The house-smoked sardines (HKD178) are a standout plate at Carmela. Dressed simply with tomato and fresh herbs in a pool of extra-virgin olive oil, the sardines take centre stage. The fish’s delicate smokiness is underpinned by a rich texture and mild salty flavour that combine to deliver a certified home run.
The ultimate sharing dish, the lamb shoulder (HKD258) is a scrumptious DIY affair. Instead of serving a chunk of roasted lamb, the well-seasoned meat has been shredded and compressed into a cylinder and presented with a variety of accompaniments, including eggplant cream (similar to the smoky Middle Eastern aubergine dip known as baba ganoush), sliced fennel, pistachio salsa, and roasted red pepper. A basket of freshly made socca, thin chickpea pancakes, comes alongside. The idea is to use all of the elements to design your own perfect bite.
On the side, the potato gratin (HKD88) is an inventive take on the popular comfort-food recipe. Carmela eschews the heaviness of cream and butter and crafts its gratin into crispy cubes of layered potato goodness that retain a soft, melting centre.
For a sweet send-off, the coffee panna cotta (HKD88) is our pick for dessert at Carmela. This classic Italian number has been given a contemporary upgrade with a touch of espresso, with the slightly bitter coffee flavour balancing the custard’s creamy sweetness.
Our verdict of Carmela
The FRANCIS trio have done it again, this time debuting a sexy Med restaurant in Central that is destined to be a hit for years to come. Carmela is the definition of pure Mediterranean charm, elevated and made modern.
Carmela, Shop G06, G/F, Nan Fung Place, 173 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, WhatsApp 9489 9212, book here
| Order this: whipped mackerel “tarama,” grilled zucchini flowers, house-smoked sardines, lamb shoulder, potato gratin, coffee panna cotta Menu: Carmela menus Price for two: HKD800–1,000 | Atmosphere: the softly lit interior perfectly channels the warmth of the Mediterranean, matched by an affable service team who make diners feel at home Perfect for: relaxed date nights and long-overdue catch-ups with mates |
This review is intended to offer an individual perspective on the dining experience and should not be considered as a definitive judgement of the restaurant’s overall quality or reputation. The views expressed in this review are solely the author’s and do not reflect the opinions of Foodie.
